Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Pawel, Atiak


Yesterday, I traveled with colleagues to Pawel, Atiak sub-county, Amuru District, Uganda. This is a tiny little village about 25 kilometers from the Uganda-Sudan border. 25 kilometers by the way, that takes 1-1.5 hours to drive on the lovely dirt road, incidently known as the Great African highway that connects Cairo to Capetown. Let me tell you that when I watched Ewan McGregor try to motorbike it, I truly understood.

In Pawel we gathered for the land agreement signing related to one of our warehouses being built. Through the services of our implementing partner, Centre for Reparations and Rehabilitation (CRR) - a fantastic local organization made up of Acholi women lawyers, we have been working to ensure land tenure security where we are building warehouses for our cooperative farmer groups. I feel proud of this project, because while everyone's running to build things: warehouses, roads, schools, we're trying to look at ways to do this that are sustainable and even avoid future conflict. If, for example, there was no land agreement - no intentional formal process of understanding the relationship between the person who gifted the land and the farmer group that built the warehouse - the land owner could conceivable claim back the land, now with a shiny new warehouse on it. Maybe he'd wait it out a bit, say once my 3 yr project is gone.

Such is the way with so many good intended, short term projects. Things run smoothly (or relatively smoothly) while we're around, but without realizing it we cause new challenges for the community. This is do no harm 101. In a humanitarian setting it's a little easier to spot. As we move toward development projects, however, it becomes less clear. Warehouses are good. It means more capacity and moving beyond subsistence farming. But looking at the entire picture is key. And that's how we decided to ensure that the land where we're building warehouses is clearly identified and secured for this purpose.

So the scene was a typical one for northern Uganda. We were greeted by a lovely chorus of ladies singing a song that I believe they made up for the occasion: "Pawel welcomes you and thanks you for the warehouses." The signing event literally took place under the mango tree, a well-known meeting spot and image in the African country side. There was even the usual cacaphony of an obnoxious rooster, a flea bitten dog and a billion half-dressed super cute schmoopy kids.

There were speeches galore; another important Ugandan tradition that begins: "I don't have much to say." And then ends many many minutes later. The local government officials were there and the LC3 did not miss an opportunity to schmooze his constitutents and fund raise. Agnes and Mike from my office did a fantastic job trading MCing responsibilities, switching from Luo to English with a few giggles as they tried to translate words like "reparations" and "land tenure."

With much pomp and circumstance, the signing finally commence with one last speech; this time from the land owner. He ended his speech with a very earnest, very sincere: "I am doing this for God and my country." Inspiring stuff indeed.

We toured the warehouse next, which was a little ways away from the mango tree. It's a pretty cool building, complete with a room for a rice huller and grinding mill (see how far the girl is outside of NYC!) The LC3 was getting into it - at one stage he had a tape measure out so that he could corroborate the size of the gifted plot to what was specified in the land agreement. Hilarious.

Walking back was a bit tricky and I had a brief moment of disorientation which only made me think of poor lost children trying to escape in the bush while running from rebels in a place where every turn looks like the last. Probably in this very place, only a few years ago...

We took a group photo, which I'll try to post here, and then headed back on the bumpy road to Capetown. Stopping a wee bit before, in Gulu.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Dog walking, French humanitarians and bbq


775 or so days into this great northern Uganda adventure I decide to start writing about it. Awesome.

I was inspired after all of this time (in Gulu 775 days is the equivalent of about 775 years...to be discussed later) by two people.

On Thursday, my friend Steffi called me to ask if one of her students could walk my dog because she was homesick. I immediately said yes. As impatient a person as I am, I seem to have all the time in the world for the pesky "research" students that come to Gulu in the busloads and even more time for the homesick ones. Sure enough Heather calls and we set up a dog walking date. While I'm pretty sure I would trust anyone with my dog, Otim Derek Jeter, Jeter for short, I nonetheless felt I should accompany the two on the walk. Surprisingly Heather didn't say much about her homesickness, only showing brief emotion when she thanked me for spending time with Jeter. Unsurprisingly Jeter jumped on her profusely and then proceeded to pull her around the neighborhood in search of the great sniff. Anyway, she made a very side comment about blogging about her Gulu experience and I got so so jealous. "What damn Gulu experience?! You just got here." Yeah, so that got me writing.

The other person who inspired me was this FANTASTIC French woman named Marie. I ran into Marie at our reluctant regulars hangout, Fugly's (ok, critics of humanitarians: go for it). Yes, Fugly's. She is 66 years old and fabulously beautiful and passionate about the work. She's doing a short stint for Columbia University on child protection. Her tales of trapsing the world and shaking down humanitarian and development buraucracy in the name of helping children (a theme I will be returning to on a regular basis) was so inspiring. Feeling so burnt out and well, ineffective, it's nice to know that you can retain passion in this world.

I just had an idea about this space before closing. Since my other passion is cooking, I think I'm going to use this space to talk about food in addition to Uganda. Bare with me as I work out the kinks. But last night I served a really fun meal for 6 people. We used my new bbq - Hayden grilled for the first time: sausages, eggplant and peppers that were marinated in pomegranate molasses from lebanon and beer (Hayden insisted on the beer). Letha made guacamole with 3 sprigs of corriander that SHE planted in my garden. I made a salad of arugala, cucumbers, mango, feta and pine nuts in a dill dressing. I also made corn muffins and oatmeal raisin and chocolate chip cookies. In case you're wondering, this is not a typical Gulu meal. But in the past two years I have been able to shop well in Kampala and around the world and grow a lot (eggplant, peppers, lemons, corriander, dill, arugala all came from my garden.) ah food.

And first blog ever now complete!